I
When Francisco Obando past away everybody in Tunapuicito, his hometown, were coming to give him a heartfelt goodbye. The attendees at the wake gathered in front of his small house under the pressure of a coast in summer and the warm weather.
He was also known as “Chico e Gloria”, which stands for Francisco, son of Gloria, a woman of strong character with whom he lived his last years.
Chico was “Chévere”, a popular guy because of his jovial and jocular personality, his helpful attitude. He and his mix of mischief and kindness, his sweet manners to break the ice when meeting new people.
A handsome boy, his life was simple but full of satisfaction. He never needed the luxury to live quiet, enjoying the love of his relatives and neighbors. A cheerful soul with oriental rhythm, he had the music in the blood as his father. Chico loved to play “El Cuatro y la Mandolina”, to sing Joropo and meet with friends, dancing and drinking schnapps to the rhythm of a drum.
Chico’s childhood was over there in the fifties, among thatched roofs, mud walls, and clay floors. Few children wore shoes at that time. Early in the morning, they felt the cold of the soil in their feets while crossing the living room, looking for their mothers who made coffee and cooked “La Arepa” in “El Fogón”, a wood stove. By the time, Tunapuicito was just a hamlet near the Caribbean sea, surrounded by tropical forest and plantations of Cacao, Banana and Yuca, a settlement among small mountains and rivers. All these began to change with the oil boom in the sixties when the people from rural areas as Tunapuicito massively started to immigrate to the big cities, looking for prosperity.
But the big cities were full of false promises. In Venezuela as in every country in America Latina, politics was under the control of myopic and illiterate men who just had one tactic: the embezzlement. The abuse of power, the traffic of influences and the illegal practices in public offices were to the order of the day. Under these circumstances, the crowd coming from the countryside was systematically marginalized by a bourgeoisie focused on self-interest. The misery of farmer sites was strongly reproduced in the big cities, not in the form of isolated hamlets far away from national wealth distribution but in the form of slum development in the periphery, marginalized zones of widespread poverty.
Chico arrived in Caracas in 1962 at the age of nineteen. As every immigrant, he was excited, full of illusions. He rented a small room for singles in San Isidro Street, Alta Vista, a slum west of the city. There he got involved with the lacerating reality. He had a hard time at first, but Chico managed to seize the time. He worked as a shoemaker at the beginning, but soon after he got a better job as a bank teller at The National Telephone Corporation.
Nevertheless, what made Chico an exceptional guy was his intelligence and creativity. He also studied electrical communications on his own, using distance education brochures. He was even capable of making his own radio, using a box of wood. He loved to read and was passionate about history, geography, sport and music. Just as Chico listened to the music of Gualberto Ibarreto, Alfredo Sadel, Héctor Lavoe or Alí Primera, he also listened to The Beatles, Gheorghe Zamfir, James Last y Richard Clayderman, in a time when very few latin people listened to that kind of Anglo Saxon music. That’s why people in the neighborhood started to call him The Rocker.
In 1967 he met Eumelia Moreno, a beautiful brunette who worked as a secretary for The Justice Department. She was also an immigrant born in El Tigre, another small rural city from west the country. He married her that same year and built his own house down the hill in the same slum. There, they had three children, Adriana, Liliana and Larry. The money they both earned was never enough, so they were constantly looking for other ways of making ends meet. When their eldest son was nine years old they decided to sell beer clandestinely.
II
Those who wanted to sell beer illegally had to buy a lot of it before 5 am to avoid the police supervision. The truck arrived every Tuesday at 4 am. Eumelia forced Larry to wake up at that hour to help his father carrying the boxes with 24 empty beer bottles, through the 130 steps staircase up to the top of the hill. After that, they had to walk a dark street of about 500 meters long until they could reach the local of The Portugues, where the beer supply truck usually parked.
The child stood reluctantly in the middle of a delicious dream when the dawn was cold and intimidating. Obligated, the child dressed old clothes as to sweat the fat drop. He loaded a beer box on his right shoulder and followed his father toward the staircase which looked threatening at that time of the day. The assailants were always on the lookout.
Chico was a strong man. He could carry two beer boxes on his right shoulder and one more hanging on his left hand. The everlasting climb was exhausting. The hovels were pending at every side of the hill as ugly plants invading a tree to its suffocation. The child, scared of every corner, struggled not to be left behind. The silence of the darkness was only interrupted by the jingle of the empty bottles.
Once Chico had bought the beer, Larry had to take care of the merchandise while his father carried back the boxes one by one because they were too heavy. The boy tried to stay calm, but it was inevitably to be nervous. In the seventies, it started an escalation of violence among young people in the slums of Caracas. Everybody had access to fire guns and this added to the poorness, the lack of education and job opportunities would take the city to be considered one of the most dangerous capitals in the continent.
But Eumelia and Chico never gave up. They worked hard in spite of the social decline and managed to provide to their children the spirit, the education and the economic support to overcome misery and moral perversion, which invaded and suffocated the society as those ugly plants did with a tree.
When they finally took into the house the last beer box, father and son rested on the living room floor with battered shoulders and tired legs. Sweats, they used to talk a little while. One day Chico perceived resignation in his son’s eyes, so he invited the child to see El Ávila, the mountain in front of the house. They came into the balcony. Then the man put his left hand on the boy’s shoulders and pinpointed a bright silver light coming from a lighthouse in the top of the mountain. Chico told his boy that the beautiful light that vanquished the darkness at dawn was their destiny. Thus, he must never ever doubt himself. The little one understood the message: “If you are sure of what you deserve, do not let the shortcomings of the moment distract you”.
III
Eumelia had also a particular personality. She was shide at the beginning of her marriage next to that charismatic man. Her upbringing was tough, marked by the discipline of her mother, a woman accustomed to hard living. But soon after, Eumelia became an extroverted woman and a demanding wife. This last was inconvenient for Chico, accustomed to the freedom of a party guy.
Three old women accompanied the dead man who laid motionless in his coffin in the middle of the small living room. Meanwhile, the revelry prevailed in the outskirts of the Chico’s home. So are the wakes in this hot lands. People just don’t know how to stay quiet. Instead of sadness, the big fellows seize the opportunity to tell stories about the deceased. They laugh and scream. They play cards and drink Ron. In his face, the corpse seemed to lament for not being able to enjoy that burst of laughing and gossip of which he had so often been the main protagonist. Among many anecdotes, they told the occasion when Chico ran away from his wife to go to a party with his friends in town. None like that to brighten the moment.
Granny Gloria lived alone and twice a year “Los Obando”, mom and dad with their children came to Tunapuicito to visit her. During one of these visits in 1973, a big party would be celebrated in Choro Choro, a hamlet located upstream deep in the wooded mountain. Chico, a mischievous man, really wanted to relive his old days as a single man, thus he tried to trick his wife and just attend the party as a horse with no rein. And so he did. He told Eumelia he would be playing dominó with his friends. Meanwhile, she stayed home, bored, dealing with the imps.
In a small town, a lie does not last long. This one lasted less than two hours. About ten o’clock at night a woman who passed by Dona Gloria’s house told Eumelia that she had just seen Chico crossing the river towards Choro Choro with a numerous group of people. Outraged but excited, Eumelia ran to Mildred, her best friend in town, and asked her going together to catch the liar with his hands in the mass, while grandma could take care of the little ones.
Mildred, a temper woman, got excited immediately with the idea of going to the party that was on everyone’s lips. But she first warned Eumelia about the distance, the darkness, and loneliness of the forest. In fact, Chico’s wife had never gone beyond the village limits, much less at night. Regardless of the warns, she steeled herself and both women rushed out to the party after dressing fashionably.
“La luna está clarita” (the moon is clear), Mildred said loudly when both women left the town lights behind. As they advanced, the tall trees covered the sky and Eumelia felt a lump in her throat. They only heard the sound of crickets, toads and flowing water. Mildred did not stop talking. It was her tactic to dispel fears. Eumelia was surprised when her companion asked her to take off her shoes. The road to Choro Choro crossed the river bed several times like a huge Anaconda spirally wound around a giant trunk.
It was just a creek. It barely covered a little above the ankles but had many stones. Both women walked for half an hour until they became accustomed to the darkness among cocoa plantations, mango trees and the smell of wet earth. When the thicket allowed it, Eumelia stared in amazement at the starry sky. She had never seen the Orion Belt and the false luster of artificial satellites so clearly.
Upon arriving at her destination Chico’s wife, who no longer felt anger or any discomfort, found about ten rural houses built on the river bank. The scene looked alike those wild-west movies and its scandalous cowboys but deep in the jungle rather than desert; donkeys rather than horses.
The din came from the lounge-bar where the event was held. Numerous men and women drank and chatted at the entrance. Inside, a crowd danced frantically to the rhythm of Joropo, Vallenato, Merengue, Salsa Brava and any Latin music under the influence of the Caribbean countries.
Chico’s face turned pale when his wife came to the dance floor and found him sweaty, dancing with another woman a song by Los Corraleros de Majagual. But Eumelia did not want to ruin her own opportunity to have fun, so she pretended to be furious when she was actually fascinated. After reproaching him for not having invited her, she took her husband by the arm and they danced until dawn. Without a doubt, it is difficult for their relatives and friends to imagine a happier moment for the couple.
IV
Chico also cooked tasty. Over there in 2012, Miguelitza, Larry’s wife, had the opportunity to check it out when she finally met him in person. She loved his Chicken Stew and considered Francisco’s Arepas a masterpiece of gastronomy. However, his specialty was “El Sancocho de Pescado” (A Fish Soup). If Lázaro had tasted Chico’s Sancocho, he would not have needed Jesus to get him up from the dead.
Good men like Chico never die. These people, their love, happy spirit and wisdom, their intangible heritage, are engraved in the heart of their children and those who had the privilege of knowing them. Chico was buried in his dear native town, just as he asked. His wife and children were at his side to the end.
A picture of Francisco wearing a watchman uniform, his last job, accompanies his son at his desk every morning. Every day he gets up at 4 am to read or write, since the days he was carrying the beer with his father. Chico’s daughters, his favorites, always talk about his multifaceted character and his endless stories.
Meantime, Tunapuicito is no longer the same. Its culture has transformed. Actually, it is disappearing. The towns of yesteryear, islands of wonderful fantasy for visitors from the city, are integrated without any planning into urban conglomerates that grow out of control. Today’s children don’t have the privilege of playing with wooden cars under the rain, with “trompos” (spins) and toads. Happy, free, the children played in the waters of the river protected by the greatness of a vegetable sea and the song of the birds as “La Guacharaca”.
Nowadays, Chico takes care of his grandchildren from the high peaks. Victoria, Alejandro, and Dorian are as good-looking and so mischievous as their Grandpa.
Spanish Version: Chico de Gloria
ANTERIOR: El Fogón de mi abuela – Tunapuicito
Escrito por: Larry Obando – Educational Content Writer
Actualmente vive en Guayaquil, Ecuador – telf. 0998524011
whatsapp: +593998524011
dademuchconnection@gmail.com

